Introduction
We are in one of the most exciting times for the watch industry and therefore also for us watch enthusiasts. For some time now, the production of mechanical watches has no longer been reserved for big manufacturers like Rolex, Omega or Patek Philippe. In recent years, we have seen more and more so-called microbrands spring up. For us watch lovers, this is a good thing, because microbrands can offer something that many established brands cannot. They take more risks, show a unique vision, and offer good value for money. Microbrands have become one of the fastest growing aspects of the mechanical watch market, in some cases even surpassing the big players in the watch industry. Most of these brands use the internet as their main source of distribution, allowing them to reduce third party costs by interacting directly with the customer. And no, I’m not talking about fashion brands like Filippo Loreti, which have built their entire business model around the “promise of eliminating the middleman”, which might just be something they say to sell you their product. As always just one of my many opinions.
Let’s continue with the definition of what I mean when I say microbrand. (Spoiler: Filippo Loreti, MVMT and Daniel Wellington are not part of it). For me, a microbrand is a (small) watch company with has limited production capacities that typically specializes in a certain style or niche. Usually, a typical microbrand also does not have extensive resources to produce its own movements or parts of the watch itself. Often this will be outsourced to third party companies.
But since microbrands are now popping up everywhere, I’ve decided to start a new series of blog posts in which I will feature 3 of my favorite microbrand watches each week. I choose each model and brand based on the following criteria:
1. the watch offers good value for money
2. the watch has a unique design that I personally like very much
3. the price of the watch should be affordable for most people (with a few exceptions).
Enough with the talking already, let’s get to the interesting part: the watches!
Brew – Retrograph – Technicolor
I first encountered Brew’s Retrograph on Teddy Baldassarre’s YouTube channel. That’s when I learned about the background of the brand and the founder – Jonathan Ferrer. The Brew brand was founded in New York City and still operates from there. The idea behind the design and the brand itself is described by Jonathan on his website:
“The Brew watch collection is designed to celebrate and capture our enjoyable coffee experiences. I’ve drawn inspiration from industrial espresso machines, which feature a special blend of warm contrasting colours and a variety of brushing effects.”
And this design philosophy is also reflected in the Retrograph. The Retrograph comes with unique case design that is very reminiscent of a “rugged” industrial design. In contrast, the matt blue dial is complemented by silver sub-dials and colorful hands. The second indicators on the dial are very detailed and, on closer inspection, offer a cool feature: from second 30 to second 35, the indicators are colored in a bright yellow hue. Brew explains this as follows: “The Retrograph dial has specific markers that specify when the optimal espresso shot has been extracted. The time for this ranges from 25 to 35 seconds – depending on the barista and the machine”.
And for me, it’s exactly these little things that make a cool microbrand. They show enthusiasm for small and unique details, which then lead to watches that look like someone designed it with passion (not like other watches, that I will not mention again..).
The Retrograph is powered by a Hybrid Meca-Quartz movement and has a case diameter of 38MM x 41.5MM. The quartz movement gives the watch a very comfortable case height of only 10.4mm. At the moment, you can purchase the watch for $350 on their website.
Specifications
Case Diameter: 38MM x 41.5MM
Case Thickness: 10.4MM
Lug width: 22MM
Crystal: SAPPHIRE GLASS
Case Material: STAINLESS STEEL 316L
Caseback: STAINLESS STEEL 316L
Strap: 22MM, DARK BLUE LEATHER, QUICK RELEASE
Dial: MATTE BLUE, SILVER SUBDIALS, C3 SUPERLUMINOVA
Water resistance: 5ATM (50 METERS)
Movement: HYBRID MECA-QUARTZ CHRONOGRAPH
Farer – World Time Automatic
The next watch is something very special and comes from the watch manufacturer Farer. I discovered the brand recently by chance during my research on microbrands and was immediately taken in by its design. I also find the philosophy and direction of the brand cool. Unfortunately, I haven’t had the chance to hold one of their watches in my hands yet (maybe that will change in the future – I’m looking at you @marketing guys from Farer).
Jokes aside and back to the brand’s philosophy: The word “Farer”, means to travel and explore. And this philosophy runs through their entire collection and is noticeable in all aspects of the watch. The UK brand describes the inspiration behind its watches as follows:
“As a British brand, the spirit of adventure is at the heart of the Farer ethos – our collection of watches are named after iconic explorers, vessels and locations that perfectly define the true spirit of Farer: ambition beyond the ordinary.”
Since the brand philosophy appealed to me, I went to the website and started browsing. And I was thrilled. Especially after I came across a specific model: Farer calls this model “World Time Automatic”. And as the name already says, Farer built a World Time function into the watch, which is very unusual for a microbrand, but also very ambitious. Unfortunately, you don’t see mechanical world timer complications too often in this price segment. And that’s what makes it so unique and attractive to me: I find the world timer function one of the most interesting complications that a watch manufacturer can build in. Maybe it’s because I like to travel a lot or because I work with people from all over the world. Anyway, there is something very special about a world timer function for me.
The Farer World timer comes in three different color variations. Personally, the “Roché” model appeals to me the most, as I find the combination of blue and white shades on the dial very appealing. The orange splashes of color in the “London” font and in the numbers of the 24-ring, compliments the design nicely. The watch reminds me in a certain way of the World timer by Montblanc. Just a thought I had spontaneously. When I took a look at the Montblanc, it was maybe just the complication and the color that made me think that.
The watch is powered by an automatic Swiss made ETA 2893-1 Elaboré movement, which is built into a case that has a diameter of 39mm. The watch comes with a power reserve of 48 hours, which is okay, considering the price of the watch. But it could cause problems if you don’t wear the watch for a few days, as you then have to reset all the World Timer times again, which could take a while. So no rushing to the office in the morning, 10 minute after you woke up.
Nevertheless, I am thrilled with the overall package and the punch it delivers. A beautiful design, a World Timer complication and swiss quality all in one package for “only” $1,375. You can purchase the watch on Farer’s website for the price mentioned above.
Specifications
CASE DIAMETER: 39mm
CASE THICKNESS: 11mm
LUG WIDTH: 20mm
lug to lug: 45mm
CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE GLASS
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL 316L
CASEBACK: STAINLESS STEEL 316L, flat sapphire exhibition glass on rear
STRAP: 20MM, Leather
DIAL: midnight blue dial with applied solid blocks of Grade A Super-LumiNova, white 24-hour disk with orange and blue numerals, central fixed engraved map plus matching date.
WATER RESISTANCE: 10ATM
MOVEMENT: Swiss Made ETA 2893-1 Elaboré movement
Lorier – Gemini
The next and last brand in today’s post was brought to my attention by “TGV” from “The Urban Gentry”. Lorier (pronounced lor-yé) was founded in New York City and is run by Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega. Aiming to make vintage inspired watches with a modern twist, which are of a good quality. Lorier released their first collection in the spring of 2018 and has been on a steep rise ever since.
And why they became so successful within a short period of time, becomes quite obvious, when we take a look at the model “Gemini”(Their other models are also very good, stay tuned for more of Lorier in this Series). But for now, let’s go back to the model, which I would like to introduce to you today: The Lorier Gemini.
The watch comes in three different colors variants, white, black and dark blue. The philosophy behind Lorier can be seen very well in this model. Lorier describes this model as “The classic sports chronograph”. And the name says it all. The Gemini combines a classic, very clean design with a wide range of functions. As the name suggests, the watch has a chronograph function. But it doesn’t stop there, Lorier also has built in a 12h bezel, which allows you to track a second time zone even without a GMT movement.
The dial is clean without any unnecessary elements and is uniformly colored in white, black or dark blue. This uniform color adds to the simple philosophy of the watch. The dial is complemented by two sub dials that are placed in a typical chronograph manner and contrast with the background. The model with the white background becomes a “panda” with the black sub-dials, while the variants with the black and blue backgrounds become “reverse pandas” with white sub-dials. The hands and the hour, minute and second indicators play perfectly into the classic modern style of the watch. In my opinion, the design is very well done and is certainly responsible for part of the success.
The other part of the recipe for success is undoubtedly the mechanical Seagull ST19 movement, which is hand-wound. The whole thing is built into a very elegant and classic case size with a diameter of 39mm. The case itself is only 10.2mm high, but the domed plexiglass crystal adds another 2mm to the height of the watch. But even with the extra 2mm, the height is appropriate and a welcome change from the modern trend that tends towards larger watches each year. The watch is delivered on a 3-link metal bracelet, which compliments the design of the case very well.
And this already rounds off my view of the Lorier Gemini. There’s not much more to say about it, I just want to say this much: a mechanical chronograph, delivered on a metal bracelet, a sophisticated design, very pleasant dimensions, and all that for only $499. Need I say more? I think not.
If you hurry you maybe will get one on their website, but be aware, usually they are sold out very quickly (I wonder why..).
Specifications
CASE DIAMETER: 39mm
CASE THICKNESS: 11mm
LUG WIDTH: 20mm
lug to lug: 45mm
CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE GLASS
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL 316L
CASEBACK: STAINLESS STEEL 316L, flat sapphire exhibition glass on rear
STRAP: 20MM, Leather
DIAL: midnight blue dial with applied solid blocks of Grade A Super-LumiNova, white 24-hour disk with orange and blue numerals, central fixed engraved map plus matching date.
WATER RESISTANCE: 10ATM
MOVEMENT: Swiss Made ETA 2893-1 Elaboré movement
Conclusion
And with the review of the Lorier Gemini, I will finish the first part of this series. The series in which I review 3 new, innovative and well-designed watches from different microbrands every week and hopefully guide you a bit through the microbrand jungle. I hope you enjoyed the article and will join me next time.
By the way, are you already following me on Instagram? I would be very happy about your support! But now I’ll leave you in peace.
You are a representative of one of the mentioned brands above? Or do you belong to a new up-and-coming brand which thinks that they deserve a spot up there? I’m always happy to learn about a new brand, just fill out the contact form here and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
